Maria Sherlock
Northwest Travel & Life
The 1980s were rough for small towns across the Pacific Northwest. The timber industry, a regional commerce mainstay, was drastically declining. Large chain stores (think Walmart, CVS, Target) moved in, and local businesses foundered.
But the Canadian town of Chemainus, about an hour’s drive north of Victoria in B.C.’s Cowichan region, took the economic-downturn-bull by the horns. By 1981, the feisty burg had already initiated a Downtown Revitalization Project. As part of that effort, the town decided that outdoor murals could add a significant—and scenic—boost to its Main Street “face lift.”
And, as they say, the rest is history: Canada’s Mural Capital was born.
The first five murals were created in 1982. Today, Chemainus is a gigantic outdoor art gallery, boasting 61 paintings and 10 sculptures created by 42 world-class artists.
Mural Creation Process
If you’re envisioning some slipshod, slap-a-painting-on-the-side-of-Joe’s-Bar-and-Grill effort, think again. The mural creation process—overseen by the Chemainus Festival of Murals Society since 1987—is thoughtful, intensive and professional. It involves multiple steps including requests for proposals from artists, rigorous review and selection, preparation of maquettes (miniatures of the artwork) and then creation of the mural. Shannon Bellamy, vice president of the Murals Society, notes that the entire process can take a year or more.
The murals fall into three categories, says Bellamy. The original historical series, totaling 47 murals, reflects the area’s heritage—from logging and mining to the Indigenous tribes and immigrants that called Chemainus home. There are five works of art in the Emily Carr collection (Carr was a renowned Victoria-born artist). The community series includes nine murals whose subjects don’t quite fit into the history-themed art of the other categories.
And they are huge, as befits murals (the largest measures 120 feet wide!).
Must-sees
Even among these outstanding pieces of art, some stand out.
In “Emily Carr’s Beloved Trees,” the trompe l’oeil style is used to incredibly realistic, optical-illusion effect. If you didn’t know it was a two-dimensional piece of art, you would absolutely think those were REAL stairs, that that was a REAL tree. It’s simply mesmerizing—not to be missed.
Northwest history buffs will enjoy the numerous depictions of Chemainus’ mill-town years and day-to-day life in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Fans of whimsy should check out the “Five Cent Candy Bar War,” commemorating the 1947 protest—spearheaded by outraged youngsters—over the increase in the price of chocolate bars, from five to eight cents. Impressionism aficionados will be drawn to the haunting forestscape of “The Hermit.”
Some of the murals have special features. The three-dimensional “Unknown Miner” includes a recording of the miner’s story. In the portrait of “Billy Thomas,” Thomas’ eyes appear to follow you as you walk. “Chemainus Labyrinth” is, indeed, an actual labyrinth.
And a few are nearly indescribable. “In Tune With Nature” closes into a box at night—painted with a forest scene—and then opens during the day to reveal an (actual!) upright piano blended into an underwater panorama. (You just have to see it for yourself!)
Problem Solved
Has the goal of revitalization been realized? “We believe it has worked,” says Bellamy. Chemainus now attracts thousands of tourists annually, eager to see the charming downtown area with its antique shops, boutiques, restaurants and the award-winning Chemainus Theatre. And, of course, all of those phenomenal murals.
When you go
Grab an “Official Mural Guide” at the Visitors Centre then follow the yellow footprints painted on the sidewalks. Plan your trip to Chemainus at visitchemainus.ca. Find more information about the murals at muraltown.com.